L'arte del cibo e della tavola da Pellegrino Artusi ai grandi pittori di sempre

Ancora prima che, nel 1973, Salvador Dalí svelasse nel suo ricettario surrealista alcuni dei fantasiosi ed esotici segreti che animavano Les dîners de Gala, lo scrittore e gastronomo Pellegrino Artusi riversava nel primo trattato culinario italiano La scienza in cucina e l’arte del mangiar bene tutta la memoria dei suoi incontri con i sapori. Era il 1891 e il suo manuale di cucina conosciuto anche come L’Artusi – attraversato da oltre 700 ricette dal sapore casalingo, dal minestrone alla “pasta matta”, dall’arrosto all’aretina al ponce alla romana, raccolte durante i suoi viaggi in Italia e preventivamente assaggiate dal suo cuoco di fiducia – era destinato ad avere lunga vita e a diventare la “bibbia” dei novelli Gordon Ramsay. A 200 anni dalla nascita del gastronomo di Forlipopoli, il 4 agosto 1820, si comprende ancora di più l’importanza di un testo che ha contribuito a rafforzare l’unità d’Italia tanto nella tavola quanto nella lingua. Michelangelo Merisi detto il Caravaggio, Canestra di frutta, 1595 circa, Olio su tela, Milano, Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana, Pinacoteca | © Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana / Mondadori PortfolioDalla cucina alla tela D’altra parte il cibo ha da sempre tessuto un fil rouge speciale, nella lingua e nella società come nell’arte. La tavola ha rappresentato (e rappresenta) la tela prediletta da molti pittori, cornice per scene di genere e Nozze di Cana, Ultime Cene e nature morte, dalla Fruttiera di persici (pesche) del pittore manierista Ambrogio Figino – considerato uno dei primi esempi di natura morta italiana, che precede la Canestra di Caravaggio – allo junk food in salsa pop preparato da Andy Warhol con bottiglie di Coca-Cola e barattoli di Campbell Soup nelle sue opere più iconiche. Ambientazione prescelta dagli artisti per rievocare il fascino esotico di mondi e sapori lontani (come le banane ne Il pasto di Paul Gauguin), ma anche i fasti e le miserie della società contemporanea – dalle bevitrici di assenzio di Degas e Picasso alle cuoche dalle generose curve del fiammingo Marten de Vos – la tavola nell’arte si presenta attraverso un’ampia e diversificata teoria di declinazioni che oscillano tra cucine e dispense di cuochi e massaie, mercati e banchetti, Café francesi e petite déjeuner preparate sull’erba, come la Colazione di Manet che tanto scandalo destò tra i benpensanti della borghesia parigina.Il cibo e la xenìa Vitruvio, nel suo De architectura, chiamava xenia i dipinti murali con i doni alimentari che il padrone di casa faceva trovare nelle stanze degli ospiti dopo il primo giorno di permanenza in villa. Un suggestivo esempio di queste rappresentazioni – che anticipano per certi versi le nature morte arcaiche del primo Seicento – è racchiuso nelle pitture parietali commissionate da Granius Vero, ritrovate nella Casa dei Cervi di Ercolano e oggi al MANN. La straordinaria resa naturalistica dei dettagli ci restituisce alcune pesche, un cantharus di vetro trasparente colmo di vino, fichi secchi e datteri, ma anche un’aragosta, conchiglie, due calamari, insomma un campionario del cibo che veniva consumato nelle case patrizie del tempo. Giotto di Bondone, Nozze di Cana, 1303-1306 circa, Padova, Cappella degli ScriovegniIn vino veritas Oltre ad essere sinonimo di cibo, di convivialità, condivisione e generosa accoglienza, la tavola diventa il contesto nel quale alcuni artisti scandagliano la profondità psicologica dello sguardo umano, come accade a Giotto nell’episodio delle Nozze di Cana affrescato nei primi anni del Trecento nella Cappella degli Scrovegni, a Padova. Lo sguardo profondo dell’uomo paffuto, vestito di rosso e con in testa una cuffia bianca, intento a sorseggiare dal calice, è caratterizzato da una straordinaria umanità e rappresenta una delle prime immagini di un bevitore di vino nella storia dell’arte del secondo millennio. Rappresenta il maestro di cerimonie, testimone del primo miracolo compiuto da Gesù che trasformò l’acqua in ottimo vino.La tavola specchio di un’epoca Uno dei banchetti più interessanti del Rinascimento che ci introduce nella rilassata atmosfera della corte medicea è quello rappresentato nel 1483 da Sandro Botticelli su uno dei quattro pannelli da cassone con le Storie di Nastagio degli Onesti tratte dalla novella del Decameron di Boccaccio. Il Maestro riproduce il ricco banchetto nuziale di Nastagio e della sua amata. Al centro della scena, incorniciata in un porticato di gusto classico, ai lati di una credenza coperta da un prezioso tessuto blu con ricami dorati, disposti simmetricamente, scorgiamo due lunghi tavoli con tovaglie bianche. I commensali sono giunti a fine pasto. Lo si intuisce da piccoli frutti rossi e briciole di pane rimaste sulla tavola. Con abilità da scenografo Botticelli introduce alcuni camerieri in calzamaglia rossa che reggono vassoi con biscotti e dolcetti di pasta di mandorle, calando nella dimensione favolistica della novella boccaccesca il ricordo di uno dei luculliani banchetti alla corte medicea ai quali lui stesso partecipò forse in qualche occasione.Sandro Botticelli, Storie di Nastagio degli Onesti, Quarto episodio, 1483, Tempera su tavola, 83 x 142 cm, Firenze, Palazzo Pucci, Collezione privata Le “Cene” e le valenze cristologiche Ad una tavola speciale, quella che lega i personaggi dell’Ultima Cena, Leonardo affida il compito di far scivolare il moto di sentimenti che scuote i discepoli all’annuncio di Cristo del tradimento da parte di uno di loro. Questo straordinario capolavoro del Maestro di Vinci si fa anche custode di una tecnica pittorica rivoluzionaria per l’epoca che consisteva nel dipingere direttamente con la tempera sul muro adeguatamente trattato. La tavola, e in particolare il cibo, assumono valenze cristologiche e simboliche nella caravaggesca Cena in Emmaus della National Gallery dove due discepoli riconoscono Cristo risorto nel momento in cui compie il gesto della benedizione del pane e del vino, alludendo così al sacramento dell’eucaristia. Caravaggio descrive la natura morta sul tavolo con grande virtuosismo: la brocca di vetro e il bicchiere che riflettono la luce, la canestra di frutta sul bordo del tavolo, una mela bacata. L’ombra a forma di coda di pesce che sbuca sotto la cesta è forse un rimando allegorico a Cristo (in greco ikthus significa pesce, ma rappresenta anche il tradizionale acronimo paleocristiano che allude a “Gesù Cristo figlio di Dio, Salvatore”).Caravaggio, Cena in Emmaus, Olio su tela, 139 x 195 cm, 1601-1602, Londra, National GalleryLa tavola e il realismo popolaresco Un realismo popolaresco colorato da toni umoristici e a volte grotteschi, tra scene di mercato traboccanti di frutta e verdura, cuoche intente a stendere la pasta col mattarello, a grattugiare formaggio o a battere le spezie nel mortaio, attraversa le tavole del pittore cremonese cinquecentesco Vincenzo Campi. La Fruttivendola, oggi alla Pinacoteca di Brera, parte della serie che include anche la Pollivendola, la Cucina, la Pescivendola, trae ispirazione dall’esperienza fiamminga di Pieter Aertsen e Joachim Beuckelaer. Se le scene naturalistiche di Campi trasudano significati moraleggianti, quelle di Annibale Carracci bandiscono ogni deformazione grottesca e atteggiamento triviale che caratterizza ad esempio i Mangiatori di ricotta di Campi per restituire sulla tela uno spaccato di vita quotidiana che si svolge all’interno di un’osteria. Ne è un esempio il Mangiafagioli, realizzato tra il 1584 e il 1585, custodito nella Galleria di Palazzo Colonna a Roma. Il rozzo contadino che trangugia il suo umile pasto è sorpreso dalla comparsa dell’osservatore, come tradiscono lo sguardo attonito e la bocca spalancata mentre alcune gocce della zuppa ricadono nel piatto. Annibale Carracci, Mangiafagioli, 1584-1585, Olio su tela, 68 x 77 cm, Roma, Galleria ColonnaOltre a costituire il più noto dipinto di genere dell’artista bolognese, la tela ci restituisce una preziosa testimonianza del pasto tipico del villano dell’epoca, a base di pane, legumi, verdure e l’immancabile bicchiere di vino. E se a farci assaporare con gli occhi il tripudio di coppa, salami e prosciutto ci pensa, nel 1886 La gioia del colore di Giovanni Segantini, Cesare Tallone lascia ai posteri, un anno dopo, il suo Gorgonzola, gruviera e pani su tavolo. Una fotografia dei tempi Dalle succulente tavole imbandite del Rinascimento alla mense dei poveri di Angelo Morbelli, la tavola assurge talvolta a fotografia culturale e antropologica dei tempi, ma soprattutto a strumento di lotta sociale, strale di un realismo che trova in Van Gogh uno dei suoi più alti interpreti. “Se un quadro di contadini sa di pancetta, fumo, vapori che si levano dalle patate bollenti va bene, non è malsano” scriveva Vincent al fratello Theo. Parole che trovano una delle più commoventi trasposizioni in pittura ne I mangiatori di patate dove l’artista porta alle estreme conseguenze la logica del realismo.Vincent Van Gogh, I mangiatori di patate, 1885, Olio su tela, 114 x 82 cm, Amsterdam, Van Gogh Museum Ben altra atmosfera rispetto a quella dei mangiatori di Van Gogh si respira nella cornice leggermente bohémienne de La colazione dei canottieri di Renoir, opera di poco antecedente e che racchiude una ben diversa tranche de vie della Parigi ottocentesca. Nella vivace scena, ambientata nella veranda aperta del ristorante dei Fournaise sull’Isola di Chatou, scorgiamo quattordici persone, amiche e amici del pittore, festosamente riunite attorno ad una tavola imbandita a godersi il meritato riposo in un tassello di vie moderne. Il Novecento e la natura mortaLa natura morta sopravvive anche al Novecento, ispirando ora le realtà oniriche di De Chirico, ora il verismo di Guttuso, e ancora le potenzialità di moto dell’immagine ferma, come risulta da Natura morta: cocomero di Umberto Boccioni, o la ricerca di tipo estetico di Botero. L’artista colombiano imbandisce ad esempio le sue tavole con frutta ed oggetti colorati ingranditi a dismisura, quasi a rendere la percezione del tatto, con personaggi avvolti da un’atmosfera sospesa e da favola. Nell’arte contemporanea il cibo perde presto i suoi contorni per diventare altro. Ne è un esempio il Busto di Donna retrospettivo di Salvador Dalì che ha come copricapo una baguette e alcune pannocchie al posto dei capelli.Andy Warhol, Campbell’s Soup Hot Dog Bean, Serigrafia su carta, 90 x 60 cm, Collezione privata La tavola e la Pop Art Le leccornie della tavola raggiungono anche il graffitismo americano. In Arroz con pollo del 1981, uno dei rari lavori ambientati in una scena interna, Basquiat raffigura una donna in versione demone mentre brandisce una forchetta aspettando che in tavola venga servito, da uno scheletro avvolto da un filo spinato, un pollo arrosto. Dalla tela alla Pop Art, dove il cibo assurge a icona del consumismo, rappresentato in veste industriale e con una forte connotazione di satira sociale, come si evince dai lavori di Maestri come Roy Liechtenstein ed Andy Warhol.A proposito di Warhol, un’altra tavola, quella di The last Supper, ispirata al cenacolo vinciano, è al centro di una delle opere più significative nella produzione del genio della Ppop Art. Siamo ben lontani dagli Achromes di Piero Manzoni, dove le rosette in caolino su tela o le uova in resina acrilica esibiscono il potere creativo della materia, le sue capacità di generarsi e rigenerarsi ancora. Volendo insomma seguire gli aforismi, “La mandibola è il nostro miglior strumento per cogliere la conoscenza filosofica” o ancora “Siamo quello che mangiamo” per rispettivamente dirla con Dalì e Feuerbach, anche l’arte ha scovato nel cibo, la sua ispirazione più fertile. E ci ha restituito capolavori, o se vogliamo, ricette di vita, che a distanza di secoli costituiscono ancora oggi, a 200 anni dai consigli succulenti di Artusi, nutrimento per gli occhi e per lo spirito.Andy Warhol, The last supper | Courtesy of Collezione Creval Leggi anche:• L’Ultima cena nell’arte da Leonardo a Warhol• La banana nell’arte, da Gauguin a Warhol fino a Cattelan
Source: Arte NEWS

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