Dagli Angioini a William Kentridge, sette tappe per scoprire Napoli

Stretti in un vicolo angusto o in posizione panoramica, affacciati sull’azzurro del Golfo, i tesori di Napoli sono ancora oggi capaci di raccontare una storia millenaria. Romani, Normanni, Svevi, Angioini, Aragonesi, Borboni hanno lasciato la propria impronta nella terra di Partenope, dando forma – tra grande arte e tradizioni popolari – a una città dal carattere unico, che oggi fa spazio al contemporaneo. In un’area limitata e facilmente percorribile si concentrano le chiese, i palazzi e i monumenti che resero grande l’antica capitale del Sud. Eccone alcuni esempi, fotografati da Gianluca Baronchelli. Napoli, Castel Nuovo | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Maestoso e scenografico, Castel Nuovo si staglia sul mare con le sue cinque torri. Più noto come Maschio Angioino, ci conduce agli ultimi secoli del Medioevo, quando Carlo d’Angiò trasferì da Palermo a Napoli la capitale del Regno delle Due Sicilie. Il nuovo castello fu concepito dall’architetto Pierre de Chaulnes come una fortezza inespugnabile, ma anche come una reggia sontuosa che incarnasse il potere della dinastia francese, sul modello del Castello di Angers nella Valle della Loira. Per decorarne gli interni furono chiamati pittori come il fiorentino Maso di Bianco e lo stesso Giotto, mentre sculture di Francesco Laurana ne ornarono l’esterno con l’arrivo degli aragonesi. A Castel Nuovo aleggiano le memorie di Boccaccio e Petrarca, che vi soggiornarono sotto Roberto d’Angiò, ma anche il ricordo truce della Congiura dei Baroni, arrestati e condannati in una sala del Castello mentre tramavano contro Alfonso d’Aragona. Dal quattrocentesco Arco di Trionfo, che celebra l’ingresso del re spagnolo a Napoli, alla gotica Cappella Palatina – unico ambiente sopravvissuto della struttura originaria – la storia si racconta tra mura possenti. La Sala dell’Armeria svela reperti di epoca romana attraverso un pavimento di vetro, la Cappella delle Anime del Purgatorio stupisce per gli ori barocchi, mentre nelle prigioni sotterranee sembra di sentire ancora il lamento dei condannati alla vista del coccodrillo che giungeva dal fossato per divorarli. Napoli, Palazzo Reale | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Se dal panoramico Castel Nuovo guardiamo sulla terraferma, la mole elegante di Palazzo Reale si impone allo sguardo nel vasto spazio di Piazza Plebiscito. Fu l’attesa di una visita mai avvenuta a determinarne la costruzione: quella del re di Spagna Filippo II, che il viceré Fernando Ruiz de Castro desiderava accogliere in una degna dimora. Siamo nel Seicento e la scelta di Don Fernando cade su Domenico Fontana, uno degli architetti più ricercati della penisola. Nei secoli successivi il suo lavoro sarà modificato da illustri colleghi come Luigi Vanvitelli e Gaetano Genovese. Oltre la facciata ornata con le statue dei re di Napoli dai normanni ai Savoia, si aprono cortili, giardini pensili e gli sfarzosi Appartamenti Reali, oggi trasformati in museo. In 30 sale mobili di alta ebanisteria, lavori in pietre dure, arazzi, orologi, bronzi e porcellane preziose ci parlano del gusto dei sovrani borbonici, austriaci, di epoca napoleonica e post-unitaria: dal magnifico Scalone d’Onore al Teatrino rococò di Ferdinando Fuga, dalla Sala degli Ambasciatori a quella di Ercole, dalla Sala del Trono alla Cappella Reale in stile barocco. Imperdibili i dipinti di scuola fiamminga e caravaggesca, così come una visita alla Biblioteca Nazionale di Napoli ospitata all’interno del palazzo. Napoli, Metro Toledo | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Pochi passi e siamo nel cuore dei Quartieri Spagnoli, dove un inusuale museo di arte contemporanea si offre allo sguardo dei passanti. Progettata dall’architetto catalano Oscar Tusquets Blanca e definita da Daily Telegraph e CNN “la stazione della metropolitana più bella d’Europa”, la fermata metro Toledo riunisce opere di noti artisti internazionali da William Kentridge a Shirin Neshat. Tra i resti delle mura aragonesi e il calco di un campo arato del Neolitico, i colori della terra, del mare e del cielo si incontrano in suggestivi mosaici, conferendo un carattere diverso a ogni piano. Se le due opere di Kentridge si interrogano sul significato della ferrovia metropolitana per la città, Engadina di Francesco Clemente esplora i confini della luce mediterranea attraverso immagini realizzate in collaborazione con i ceramisti campani. Esseri umani si librano in volo insieme agli uccelli in The Flying – Le tre finestre di Ilya ed Emilia Kabakov, mentre i nove grandi ritratti fotografici realizzati da Shirin Neshat strizzano l’occhio al teatro contemporaneo partenopeo. Dopo le Olas di Tusquets Blanca, le indagini sulla Razza Umana di Oliviero Toscani e le creazioni concettuali di Lawrence Weiner, ci tuffiamo nell’azzurro del mare con le light box di Robert Wilson, che qui firma un’opera iconica. Si tratta di Crater de Luz, un foro di forma conica che attraversa tutti i livelli della stazione, dove i raggi solari interagiscono con i colori di suggestive luci a led. Napoli, Piazza Dante | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Proseguendo su via Toledo ci imbattiamo nella monumentale Piazza Dante, luogo di ritrovo per napoletani e turisti a un passo dalle librerie e dai caffè di Port’Alba. Ridisegnata da Gae Aulenti all’inizio degli anni Duemila, è uno spazio dalle mille vite. Anticamente era nota come Largo Mercatello per la presenza di attività commerciali, magazzini di cereali e cisterne d’olio. Nel Settecento fu trasformata da Luigi Vanvitelli con la creazione del Foro Carolino, un’imponente architettura semicircolare che celebra la grandezza di Carlo di Borbone con 26 sculture, una per ogni virtù del re. Quattro di queste statue furono scolpite da Giuseppe Sammartino, autore del celebre Cristo Velato della Cappella Sansevero. Al centro dell’edificio una nicchia avrebbe dovuto ospitare il monumento equestre del sovrano, ma il bozzetto in gesso fu distrutto durante i moti popolari del 1799 e il suo posto fu presto occupato da una statua di Napoleone, abbattuta a sua volta al ritorno dei Borbone. Sulla nicchia rimasta vuota fu innalzata una piccola torre con un orologio. È con l’Unità d’Italia che il Foro Carolino diventa finalmente Piazza Dante, accogliendo la statua del Sommo Poeta che ancora oggi ci saluta dall’alto. Napoli, Gesù Nuovo | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Metamorfosi e colpi di scena caratterizzano anche la storia della Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, affacciata sull’omonima piazza. A prima vista la sua facciata in bugnato scuro non sembra appartenere a un edificio religioso, e in effetti alla fine del Quattrocento dava il benvenuto agli ospiti del lussuoso Palazzo Sanseverino. Quando, a metà del secolo successivo, i principi Sanseverino si opposero all’introduzione del Tribunale dell’Inquisizione a Napoli, i loro beni furono confiscati e messi all’asta dai Borboni. Il palazzo fu acquistato dai Gesuiti e convertito in chiesa. Oltre il muro di bugne scomparvero le sale e i giardini della cosiddetta “reggia”, mentre si innalzavano navate e cappelle splendenti di ori, affreschi, marmi policromi. Durante la Seconda Guerra Mondiale una bomba cadde sul tetto della chiesa e rimase inesplosa: oggi è esposta nei locali attigui alla navata destra come il reperto di un miracolo. Questo non è l’unico mistero cresciuto intorno al Gesù Nuovo. Strani segni sono incisi sulle bugne a diamante della facciata: c’è chi li considera simboli alchemici, chi vi ha rintracciato lettere dell’alfabeto aramaico corrispondenti a una composizione musicale. Secondo una leggenda, i maestri pipernieri che lavorarono alla parete non disposero i simboli esoterici nel verso giusto, attirando sull’edificio una serie di sciagure: dalla confisca del palazzo all’incendio della chiesa, dai ripetuti crolli della cupola alla cacciata dei Gesuiti dalla città. Napoli, San Domenico | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Dall’animata Piazza del Gesù ci spostiamo in Piazza San Domenico, cuore del quartiere universitario. Incurante della movida che la circonda, oltre l’omonima guglia barocca la Basilica di San Domenico Maggiore custodisce con il convento adiacente la memoria storico-religiosa della Napoli medievale. Eretto tra il 1283 e il 1324, il complesso ospitò le lezioni di San Tommaso d’Aquino – del quale è possibile visitare la cella – e più tardi vide seduti tra i banchi Giordano Bruno e Tommaso Campanella. Tra le sue mura sono passati artisti come Caravaggio, José de Ribera, Luca Giordano, Mattia Preti, Francesco Solimena, Domenico Vaccaro, Cosimo Fanzago. A dispetto di terremoti e incendi, San Domenico è rinata ogni volta più splendente che mai, anche grazie alla scelta dei sovrani aragonesi di farne il proprio pantheon: tuttora è possibile ammirarne le sepolture, le cosiddette Arche Aragonesi. Dalle vaste navate affiancate da 27 cappelle vale la pena di spingersi dentro il Museo di San Domenico Maggiore: per ammirare le decorazioni dei Refettori e della Sala del Capitolo, ma anche preziosi arredi, abiti cinquecenteschi e una versione del Salvator Mundi di Leonardo da Vinci che alcuni storici considerano l’originale. Napoli, Santa Luciella | Foto: © Gianluca Baronchelli per ARTE.it 2020Nella Neapolis romana e precisamente nell’antico Vicus Cornelianus troviamo un piccolo e semisconosciuto gioiello di architettura barocca. Tra San Gregorio Armeno e San Biagio dei Librai, la Chiesa di Santa Luciella ci porta a contatto con la vita quotidiana del popolo nei secoli passati. Sorta nel XIV secolo per volere del funzionario della corte angioina Bartolomeo di Capua, fu presa in custodia prima dalla corporazione dei mugnai e poi da pipernieri, scultori di pietre dure. Furono questi ultimi a dedicarla a Santa Lucia, invocando la protezione per i propri occhi dalle schegge sfuggite allo scalpello. Mentre la chiesa torna alla vita grazie a interventi di restauro finanziati con il crowdfunding, nei suoi sotterranei una celebre reliquia attrae devoti e curiosi. Si tratta del teschio con le orecchie, raro esemplare di cranio con cartilagini mummificate che, secondo la tradizione, poteva ascoltare le preghiere dei fedeli e trasmetterle al santo più indicato. Sembra che il teschio risalga addirittura al Seicento: il suo culto è legato alla leggenda delle anime pezzentelle, i morti anonimi rimasti senza una degna sepoltura, che i fedeli aiutavano a guadagnare la salvezza “adottandone” il teschio e ricevendo in cambio delle grazie.
Source: Arte NEWS

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