Viaggio a Matera. Perché è il momento giusto per visitare la Città dei Sassi

Matera tira un respiro. Dopo il silenzio surreale del lockdown, per le strade dei Sassi i bar e i ristoranti riaprono alla spicciolata. Sul Piano – il salotto cittadino di impronta settecentesca – la vita è già tornata a brulicare. Nei rioni antichi, scavati sul costone di roccia che digrada verso il Canyon della Gravina, la ripresa ha un altro ritmo. Di notte intravedi una coppia di volpi, distingui il canto della civetta, ti fermi a osservare i gatti in amore; di giorno le rondini e i falchi grillai dominano la scena. Senti il profumo dell’erba che arriva dall’Altopiano della Murgia, punteggiato di grotte, o quello della mimosa selvatica che cresce sul burrone. Al chiarore della luna, gruppetti di giovani del posto si riprendono i rioni antichi dopo il pienone del 2019, quando Matera è stata Capitale Europea della Cultura. Sono passati pochi mesi, ma sembra un’eternità. Tra i vicoli dei Sassi si avverte di nuovo il soffio del tempo, ultimamente coperto dal respiro affannoso dei turisti sulle scalinate. Case scavate nella roccia, chiese rupestri sorprendentemente decorate, palazzotti nobiliari, cantine e cisterne sono pronte a raccontare ancora la lunga vita che le ha portate fin qui: questa volta senza fretta, folle e clamori. I Sassi di Matera,  Patrimonio dell’UNESCO | Foto: Pablo Debat via ShutterstockPer chi ama un turismo tranquillo, senza cesure rispetto alla vita quotidiana della città, e desidera gustare la poesia dei luoghi al di là dei grandi eventi, è questo il momento di visitare Matera. Risparmiata dai rigori della pandemia e arricchita dai lavori svolti in vista del 2019, la Città dei Sassi è pronta a offrire gioielli di d’arte restaurati di recente, percorsi museali di nuova concezione, itinerari aggiornati lungo il corso di milioni di anni. Dall’archeologia al contemporaneo, dalla pittura rupestre alla scultura, ce n’è davvero per tutti. Ma soprattutto c’è un immenso museo a cielo aperto da esplorare come si fa con gli Scavi di Pompei o il Parco di Selinunte, ma con più libertà di movimento e con il gusto dell’imprevisto, della vita: perché tra una visita guidata e un aperitivo, può capitare di scambiare due chiacchiere con un artigiano al lavoro o con un vecchietto che si prepara a fare il vino, e di scoprire come le tradizioni si declinino al presente. I Sassi, un’architettura senza architetto Inutile dirlo: il paesaggio a Matera fa la parte del leone. Basta affacciarsi da una balaustra per restare ammutoliti. Chi ha progettato una simile meraviglia? Nessuno può attribuirsene il merito. I Sassi sono una straordinaria creazione collettiva, frutto della millenaria interazione degli uomini con le risorse della terra. È questo il motivo dell’inclusione della città all’interno del Patrimonio dell’Umanità dell’Unesco, che ai rioni antichi ha riconosciuto la denominazione di “paesaggio culturale”. In un labirinto di case di tufo, scalinate e scorci mozzafiato, nulla è come appare: quel campanile che sembra così lontano è raggiungibile in dieci minuti, mentre la stradina che stai percorrendo è in realtà il tetto della grotta sottostante. Nei secoli Matera ne ha viste di storie: dagli insediamenti preistorici allo sviluppo della civiltà rupestre, dallo sfollamento degli anni Cinquanta all’ingresso nell’Unesco World Heritage, che nel 1993 ne ha segnato il rilancio. Il posto adatto per avere un’idea di questo lungo cammino è Casa Noha, un’antica dimora oggi appartenente al FAI dove la memoria si fa racconto in un coinvolgente viaggio multimediale. I Sassi di Matera | Foto: SviluppoApparizioni in punta di pennello: i colori della pittura in grotta Il bianco dorato del tufo, il verde e il giallo della vegetazione non sono gli unici colori dei Sassi: in epoche lontane pittori esperti hanno impreziosito le pietre scavate con incredibili decorazioni. Santi dallo sguardo ieratico, madonne dai volti bizantineggianti, raffinati motivi ornamentali sono pronti a sorprenderci dalla fresca penombra delle 155 cripte e chiese rupestri presenti sul territorio materano. La loro storia inizia nell’alto Medioevo, con l’arrivo da Est dei monaci messi in fuga da iconoclasti e saraceni. A Matera trovano un ambiente non troppo dissimile da quello di provenienza: vivono da asceti nelle grotte e fondano cenobi, che ampliano al bisogno scavando nuove stanze nella roccia friabile. Le loro tradizioni si intrecceranno con l’altra cultura monastica in ascesa, quella dei Benedettini, in una pittura che è un abbraccio tra Oriente e Occidente. Affreschi da poco restaurati attendono i visitatori a Santa Maria de Idris e San Giovanni in Monterrone, che dominano i Sassi da uno sperone di roccia a strapiombo sulla Gravina, mentre il complesso della Madonna delle Virtù e San Nicola dei Greci mostra come la stratificazione storica possa aver dato luogo ad architetture articolate e affascinanti. Se con i suoi misteriosi sotterranei San Pietro Barisano è la chiesa rupestre più estesa dell’abitato, Santa Barbara sfoggia ancora la sua architettura bizantina e le pitture murali di Santa Lucia alle Malve sono testimoni di antichi culti legati al femminile, nell’area sacra del cosiddetto cimitero barbarico. Nella Cappella Sistina dell’arte rupestre Fuori città, tra i vigneti e la macchia mediterranea, c’è un piccolo gioiello che è diventato il simbolo dell’arte rupestre: è la Cripta del Peccato Originale, ricavata da una grotta a strapiombo sulla Gravina e interamente affrescata in epoca longobarda dal misterioso Pittore dei Fiori. Negli anni Sessanta del ‘900 fu un pastore a segnalare la presenza di questo tesoro dimenticato, raccontando in giro che dormiva con le sue pecore in un ovile abitato dai santi sul ciglio della Gravina. Le ricerche successive, un accurato restauro e un progetto di valorizzazione hanno offerto nuova vita all’antica Grotta dei Cento Santi, oggi nota come “Cappella Sistina dell’arte rupestre”. Linee semplici e raffinate caratterizzano lo stile del “Michelangelo” che tra l’VIII e il IX secolo la impreziosì con le scene della Creazione e del Peccato Originale, le figure degli Apostoli, gli Arcangeli e la Vergine Regina, tutti insieme su un tappeto di fiori rossi. Pitture rupestri nella Cripta del Peccato Originale, Matera | Foto: Synchronos, MateraMatera, città d’acqua Tra i ritrovati di un ingegno secolare, a Matera merita una menzione il sistema di raccolta delle acque: una fitta rete di canali e cisterne ipogee raccoglieva le acque piovane, le depurava e le accompagnava fino a un passo dalla porta di casa o addirittura all’interno. In tempi di emergenza ambientale avremmo molto da imparare da questo patrimonio che non è più in funzione, ma che fortunatamente è ancora visibile. Possiamo scoprirne i segreti grazie a grotte e cisterne di diverse dimensioni aperte al pubblico nei Sassi . Ma il luogo più suggestivo per farsi un’idea è il Palombaro Lungo, un’immensa cisterna che riposa sotto la piazza principale della Città dei Sassi. Soprannominato “la cattedrale d’acqua” per le proporzioni maestose (18 metri di altezza e 50 di larghezza per una capienza di 5 milioni di litri), il Palombaro è stato riportato alla luce negli anni Novanta insieme a una porzione dell’abitato di cui si era persa memoria: botteghe, abitazioni, magazzini e neviere, più una grossa torre di epoca aragonese. Sculture nella scultura: il contemporaneo è di casa al Musma Il fascino delle origini non è tutto. Per chi ha voglia di mescolare passato e presente, la Città dei Sassi ha in serbo più di una sorpresa. Il Musma – Museo della Scultura Contemporanea sfoggia una collezione che attraversa il Novecento coprendo anche grafica e disegno (Medardo Rosso, Arturo Martini, Fausto Melotti, Mirko Basaldella, Francesco Messina, Piero Consagra, Bruno Munari, Piero Manzoni, Emilio Isgrò, giusto per citarne alcuni) e si arricchisce ogni anno di nuovi progetti site specific. Dalla Street Art di Gomez alle storie che hanno segnato l’Italia secondo Jasmine Pignatelli, dai video di Valerio Rocco Orlando alla dittatura dei social network teorizzata da Saverio Todaro, i fermenti del presente penetrano tra le mura dell’immenso Palazzo Pomarici, che l’immaginario popolare ha battezzato “Casa delle Cento Stanze”. La peculiarità del Musma è quella di ospitare “sculture in una scultura”: altro non sono infatti i suoi ipogei scavati nel tufo da mani anonime, dove le opere trovano posto in un allestimento di potente atmosfera. Ipogeo III, Matera, MUSMA | Foto: Pierangelo LaterzaDalla Spagna ai Sassi. A Casa Ortega storie d’arte e di libertà Non lontano dal Musma, lungo l’antica cinta muraria, si trova un altro luogo d’arte da non perdere. Su una fortificazione longobarda sorge il palazzo che il pittore Josè Ortega elesse a proprio rifugio durante l’esilio dalla Spagna franchista. Lo sfollamento degli anni Cinquanta aveva trasformato i Sassi in una città quasi fantasma, sfondo di povere vite, esperimenti hippie e scorribande di bambini. L’artista vi trovò l’ispirazione per quadri coloratissimi in cui riconosciamo le influenze di Goya e di El Greco, di Picasso e di Mirò. La bidimensionalità della pittura è superata grazie all’uso della cartapesta, ben radicato nella tradizione locale con cui l’artista entrò presto in contatto. A Casa Ortega mobili, maioliche e decorazioni realizzate dagli artigiani del posto disegnano lo spazio intorno ai cicli pittorici dell’autore spagnolo, raccontando storie di amicizia e di reciproco arricchimento. Al Parco della Palomba, dove nasce la materia La pietra è l’anima di Matera. Ma da dove arriva il calcare che dà forma a chiese e palazzi? Lo scopriamo fuori dall’abitato, dove le cave di tufo sono parte del paesaggio. In Contrada la Palomba, tra i rilievi e le grotte della Murgia, lo scultore Antonio Paradiso ha fatto di una cava in disuso un atelier a cielo aperto. Nell’insolito scenario di Cava Paradiso le sculture del padrone di casa accolgono i lavori realizzati da artisti contemporanei in residenza: un dialogo tra l’uomo e la materia, tra le forme dell’arte e quelle della natura che ha colpito i partecipanti agli eventi di Matera 2019, quando il parco è stato teatro di un fortunato ciclo di mostre. Castello Tramontano, Matera | Foto:  AntonioMT88 (Own work) via Wikimedia Creative Commons / Wiki Loves Monuments Italia 2015Dal Neolitico al Novecento, i mille volti della memoria Non solo Sassi : dal Colle della Civita, scrigno dei palazzi più pregiati, al Castello Aragonese del conte Tramontano, ogni epoca ha le sue vicende da raccontare attraverso architetture e opere d’arte. C’è la ricca Cattedrale in stile romanico pugliese, che durante i lavori di restauro ha svelato nuovi affreschi e ambienti ipogei: tra decorazioni stratificate è possibile leggervi la storia della città. E ci sono le numerose chiese del Piano, il centro storico nobile separato dalla “vergogna” dei rioni popolari. Il Medioevo è di casa a San Giovanni Battista, che conserva l’aspetto originario a partire da immaginifici capitelli zoomorfi, mentre il Barocco svela il suo volto più tenebroso nella Chiesa del Purgatorio, decorata da teschi e simboli di morte, dove assistere ai riti di religioni diverse da quella cattolica. Per chi desidera scoprire le origini della vita a Matera e nel suo territorio, il posto giusto è il Museo Archeologico Nazionale Domenico Ridola, dove un allestimento di nuova concezione spazia tra la preistoria e la Magna Grecia, tra il racconto di memorabili campagne di scavo, il mistero dei reperti neolitici, la bellezza dei vasi istoriati ritrovati in zona. A pochi passi da qui, nell’area settecentesca della città, Palazzo Lanfranchi ospita il Museo Nazionale di Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata, che nel 2019 il pubblico ha conosciuto grazie alla grande mostra Rinascimento visto da Sud. Nelle stanze dell’ex seminario tele, tavole dipinte, sculture, manufatti in legno o in pietra ripercorrono l’avventura dell’arte e del collezionismo in regione, mentre i quadri di Carlo Levi – tra cui l’imponente Lucania ’61 – traducono in immagini le esperienze che l’intellettuale torinese narrò nel libro Cristo si è fermato a Eboli. All’esterno un’ultima sorpresa: una terrazza dal panorama mozzafiato, per ammirare dall’alto il Sasso Caveoso e guardare un bel film all’aperto nelle sere d’estate.Il Duomo di Matera | Foto: Gianni Crestani via Pixabay
Source: Arte NEWS

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