Riaprono le Terme di Caracalla: un viaggio nel luogo del benessere dell'antica Roma

Un senso di grandezza e di nostalgica bellezza si cela dietro lo sfarzo architettonico destinato al benessere e al diletto dell’antica Roma. Siamo alle Terme di Caracalla, le stesse che, con le loro mura minacciose, Giosuè Carducci esaltava in un’ode carica di stupore di fronte alla caduta di un impero, tanto glorioso quanto irraggiungibile dagli uomini moderni, e in stridente contrasto con le miserie del presente. Terme di CaracallaEd in effetti, passando di fianco al complesso delle grandi terme imperiali di Roma, sorvegliate da imponenti pini, specie di notte, un senso di fascinosa grandezza raggiunge il viaggiatore. In questo centro benessere ante litteram, dotato anche di due biblioteche, tabernae e persino uno stadio, passeggiava, faceva il bagno, studiava, si dedicava alla cura del corpo la Roma dei Severi. Fino a quando, nel 537 d.C, l’assedio di Vitige, re dei Goti, non ne determinò l’abbandono per il taglio degli acquedotti con la conseguente destinazione delle Terme, nel XII secolo, a cava di materiali per la decorazione di chiese e di palazzi, dal Duomo di Pisa alla basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Tra le possenti volte e gli archi giganteschi di queste che l’autore latino Polemio Silvio considerava una delle sette meraviglie di Roma, avremmo visto incontrarsi, socializzare e rilassarsi fino a 8mila ospiti al giorno. Terme di Caracalla, spogliatoio. Courtesy Soprintendenza Speciale di RomaLe Terme di Caracalla “ripartono” dopo il lockdownDopo quasi tre mesi di buio dovuto all’emergenza sanitaria, questa bellezza torna nuovamente a disposizione di romani e turisti grazie alla riapertura delle Terme di Caracalla, che tornano ad essere visitabili con un percorso circolare a senso unico, tra i giardini e il blocco termale. L’annullamento della stagione estiva del Teatro dell’Opera, a causa della pandemia, e quindi l’assenza del palco e della gradinata dedicata agli spettacoli – ospitati in genere in estate in questo suggestivo parco – permetterà ai visitatori di godere per tutta l’estate dell’intero giardino. “Le Terme di Caracalla – ha spiegato il Soprintendente Daniela Porro – tornano a essere il luogo della bellezza e del benessere di Roma. Non solo un sito archeologico tra i più importanti e imponenti della Capitale, ma anche un parco verde e lussureggiante, dove poter godere insieme di cultura e quiete”. Al parco archeologico – aperto dal giovedì alla domenica dalle 9 alle 19.15 – si potrà accedere solo con prenotazione obbligatoria on-line sul sito di Coopculture. L’accesso sarà consentito a un massimo di 40 persone all’ora (10 persone ogni 15 minuti), 380 in un’intera giornata, con distanziamento assicurato e uso della mascherina. Terme di Caracalla. Courtesy Soprintendenza Speciale di RomaIl monumentale complesso voluto da Marco Aurelio Antonino Bassiano Era stato Marco Aurelio Antonino Bassiano – detto Caracalla dal nome della veste gallica che indossava, figlio di Settimio Severo – a inaugurarle nel 216 d.C, come testimoniano i bolli laterizi, in un’area adiacente al tratto iniziale della via Appia. Eliogabalo e Severo Alessandro le completarono con decorazioni e porticati che raggiungevano, in alcuni punti, un’altezza di 37 metri. Le fonti parlano di 250 monumentali colonne di marmo, una pavimentazione in marmi colorati orientali, mosaici di pasta vitrea e marmi alle pareti, e ancora stucchi dipinti e centinaia di statue nelle 156 nicchie delle pareti degli ambienti, oltre che nelle sale più importanti e nei giardini. In cinque anni di lavori per la costruzione dell’intero complesso furono impiegati 9mila operai al giorno e 9 milioni di laterizi. L’orientamento del complesso, come nelle terme di Traiano, sfruttava al meglio l’esposizione solare, con il caldarium posto sul lato sud, e ancora il tepidarium, il frigidarium e la natatio (una sorta di piscina olimpionica) decorata da quattro colonne monolitiche in granito. Terme di Caracalla, natatio. Courtesy Soprintendenza Speciale di RomaAi lati, disposti simmetricamente e raddoppiati, due palestre e gli spogliatoi che conservano ancora oggi eleganti mosaici. Il recinto che circonda l’area centrale racchiudeva invece le cisterne e le due biblioteche simmetriche, a sud – una greca, l’altra latina – due grandi esedre con ambienti di ritrovo, a ovest e a est, gli accessi principali e le tabernae inserite nello spazio perimetrale, a nord. Erano tuttavia i sotterranei il vero fulcro della vita nelle Terme, un gomitolo di cunicoli e grandi gallerie carrozzabili dove il costante lavoro di schiavi, ed operai specializzati assicurava il perfetto e costante funzionamento della macchina tecnologica delle terme, lontano dagli occhi dei frequentatori. Centinaia di fuochisti bruciavano ogni giorno dieci tonnellate di legno per mantenere l’acqua alla giusta temperatura per gli ospiti delle terme. Qui si trovavano tutti i depositi di legname, un mulino, il mitreo – il più grande rinvenuto a Roma – l’impianto di riscaldamento con una cinquantina di forni, le caldaie e quindi l’impianto idrico, con 18 cisterne che alimentavano vasche e fontane. Una fitta rete di piccoli cunicoli assicurava la posa delle tubazioni in piombo e la gestione della distribuzione dell’acqua. Le gallerie del riscaldamento correvano sotto l’intero edificio illuminate da lucernai che, consentendo il ricambio dell’aria, impedivano al legname conservato di marcire. Qui avremmo sentito scivolare le ruote dei carri carichi di legna, trainati da cavalli, e ancora voci, ordini e disposizioni. L’intera superficie delle Terme era alimentata da una derivazione – fatta costruire dallo stesso Caracalla nel 212 d.C. – dell’acqua Marcia, arricchita di nuove sorgenti, che prese il nome di acqua Nova Antoniniana. Il declino del complesso termale Dopo l’abbandono delle Terme, nel 537 d.C. dopo l’assedio di Vitige, re dei Goti, ebbe luogo, nel XVI secolo anche la loro spoliazione, sotto papa Paolo III Farnese che, tra il 1545 e il 1547, ne utilizzò le sculture per ornare il suo nuovo palazzo, come dimostra il Toro Farnese, oggi al Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli o il mosaico policromo con ventotto figure di atleti, scoperto nel 1824 nell’emiciclo di una delle palestre e oggi ai Musei Vaticani. Nel frattempo l’area un tempo dedicata allo svago e ai bagni del popolo di Roma venne adibita a orti e vigneti. Toro Farnese – Apollonio (I sec. a.C.) – Museo Archeologico di Napoli | Photo: © 2017 Paolo Mastazza per ARTE.itGli scavi dell’area ebbero inizio nel 1824 per proseguire fino ai primi del Novecento quando, indagato il corpo centrale, si passò all’esplorazione dell’area perimetrale e di parte dei sotterranei. Risale al 1996 l’ultimo ritrovamento, con una statua acefala di Artemide. Oggi, a distanza di quasi duemila anni, le Terme di Caracalla continuano a regalare diletto agli appassionati di musica e arte contemporanea, accogliendo, nei mesi estivi – ad eccezione di quest’estate 2020 – la stagione di opera e balletto del Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma. Dal 2012 Caracalla si apre anche all’arte contemporanea. Michelangelo Pistoletto realizza, per la Soprintendenza, il Terzo paradiso con reperti delle Terme stesse, seguito, nel 2016, dalla Mela reintegrata, in marmo di Carrara, collocata in esposizione permanente al centro dell’antico posto di guardia, riservato un tempo al custode del traffico di carri, legname e uomini. Il 24 dicembre 2017 iniziano le visite guidate con visore. Le Terme di Caracalla diventano il primo grande sito archeologico coperto visitabile con la realtà immersiva in 3D.Terme di Caracalla, Sotterranei. La Mela Reintegrata vista da est | Archivio fotografico della Soprintendenza Speciale per il Colosseo e l’area archeologica centrale di Roma – Foto di Fabio CaricchiaLeggi anche:• Una mela di Pistoletto spunta a Caracalla• I volti degli schiavi senza nome nel ventre di Caracalla
Source: Arte NEWS

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