Tre polli allo spiedo: le pagelle del critico in incognito

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di Valerio M. Visintin

Cosa può fare un povero critico gastronomico se i ristoranti sono chiusi? Non c’è che una via d’uscita per mantenere fede al proprio impegno professionale. Ci si sfila la tuta felpata, si depongono le scarpe ginniche, si indossano giaccone di pelle, scarponi, cappello. E si ordina un pasto a domicilio.
Anzi, tre. Perché, se non altro, di questi tempi ci si può concedere il lusso di una visita multipla e simultanea. Oggi il confronto è tra specialisti del pollo arrosto, piatto festoso, semplice e diretto, adatto alle famiglie come ai cuori solitari.
Ho scelto tre campioni del genere. E ho cercato di omogeneizzare le scelte per favorire un equo confronto: tre polli interi con patate. Gli sfidanti, in ordine alfabetico, sono i seguenti.
Giacomo Rosticceria, l’anello più domestico di un impero dislocato tra Porta Vittoria e piazza del Duomo. Il superchiosco di Giannasi, mito e realtà della gastronomia milanese dal 1967. Grouse Rotisserie, catena sorgente, nemica degli allevamenti intensivi.

Giacomo Rosticceria
Presentazione ultramoderna, dentro un’astronave di plastica, che favorirà la conservazione di eventuali avanzi (e il passaggio in microonde). Il pollo è già spaccato in due. Scelta comoda per la gestione del taglio, ma esteticamente sgradevole. Probabile sia anche la ragione per la quale l’interno manca di umidità e fragranza. In generale, per l’eccessiva pastosità delle carni, è lecito ipotizzare che la cottura sia avvenuta in giornata. E che il pollo sia stato riscaldato prima della consegna. In compenso la materia prima è di buonissima qualità. Anche se la dicitura, “pollo di razza francese”, non significa granché.
Pollice verso per le patate: tagliate grossolanamente, prive di rosolatura.
Voti: 7 al pollo, 5 alle patate
Prezzo al netto delle spese di consegna: 22 euro il pollo (quello francese), 5 euro le patate.
Da ordinare su DeliverooGlovoUberEats.

Giannasi
È il più economico dei tre. Circostanza che mi spinge a una pregiudiziale benevolenza. E la prima analisi mi consegna una buona notizia: la cottura è evidentemente perfetta e uniforme. Tuttavia, la carne risulta stopposa. Mentre il gusto è silenziato. Non vale più di una faticosa sufficienza.
Le patate novelle – tondoline, speziate, salate con generosità – sono soddisfacenti per quantità e gusto.
Voti: 6 al pollo, 6,5 alle patate
Prezzo al netto delle spese di consegna: 7 euro il pollo, 4 euro le patate.
Da ordinare su Deliveroo.

Grouse Rotisserie
“Polli italiani”, scrivono, “allevati a terra e senza uso di antibiotici”. E fin qui, va benone. Ma il sito aggiunge anche altre affermazioni fumose, che necessiterebbero di decriptazione. Come “da allevamenti certificati” (quali certificazioni?) o “i nostri polli sono controllati da personale veterinario e da esperti in zootecnia” (ci mancherebbe altro!). La confezione è la più elementare: un involto di alluminio dentro un sacchetto. Però, all’esame dell’assaggio, questo pollo vince la gara con largo distacco. Intanto, è profumatissimo. La carne è morbida e umida anche nelle parti più magre, come il petto. Eppure, ben saldata alle ossa. Il sapore è un ricordo perduto che torna a trovarci.
Le patate sono chips, calde e croccantine.
Voti: 9 al pollo, 7+ alle patate (4 a chi ha scritto i testi del sito)
Prezzo al netto delle spese di consegna: 12,50 euro il pollo, 3,90 euro le patate.
Da ordinare su DeliverooGlovoMyMenuJustEatUberEats.

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